This method is the same for all forced bulbs, apart from the alternative ways mentioned below:
To have hyacinths in flower for the Christmas period make sure you buy bulbs labelled 'prepared'
You may wish to wear gloves when handling the bulbs as hyacinths can cause skin irritation
The simplest compost to choose is bulb fibre, especially if the container has no drainage holes. Alternatively, John Innes Multi-purpose compost can be used, provided it has a good, open texture and is moisture-retentive but free-draining. It is not necessary to use a fertiliser-rich growing medium or to feed the bulbs after planting
Wet the fibre or compost first and place a layer in the bottom of the bowl or pot
Set the bulbs on the fibre or compost. They can be close together, but not touching each other or the sides of the container
Fill around the bulbs with more fibre or compost, leaving about 1cm (½in) between the compost surface and the container rim to aid watering
The tops of the bulbs should just be showing at the surface
Bulbs may be forced into early growth for indoor display in winter.
Keep in a dark place at temperatures above freezing but no higher than 45 degrees F, for at least 10 weeks to allow roots to develop.
When shoots are about 1 inch long, increase light and temperature gradually.
Water carefully, avoiding wetting the shoots or waterlogging the soil.
After flowering, forced hyacinths may be planted in the garden and they will flower again in subsequent years.
Growing hyacinths in bulb vases
This is an alternative method for growing hyacinths. The bulb should be slightly smaller in diameter than the vase so that it sits snugly in the vase. Fill the glass with water to the neck and then place the bulb in the top. The water level should be just below the bottom of the bulb. The plant can then be treated in the same way as potted hyacinth.
Just as your hyacinths are beginning to flower ,you can add a personal touch by adding a few stems of variegated holly , some pine cones and contorted hazel.